Choose happiness with Chuulap

PRINT HEAD: Choose happiness with Chuulap

PRINT BLURB: Chu Suwannapha of Chuulap showed at Pitti Uomo and the response to his Sea Explorer collection was more than he could have hoped for, writes Thango Ntwasa

There are many things to love about Florence, Italy. The food, Renaissance art and its cathedral. But the awe-inspiring city is also home to impeccable fashion and no show is a bigger authority than Pitti Uomo — especially when it comes to menswear.

Taking over the streets of Florence every January and June are the lovers of bespoke apparel who continue the 60-year tradition of honouring the most important Italian brands. As with most good traditions, Pitti Uomo has evolved and now includes top global designers.

Making his debut is none other than local icon Chu Suwannapha of Chuulap fame. The brand has won hearts around the world, with Suwannapha's distinct textiles earning him the title of  prince of prints.

As part of the event's trade fair, Pitti Uomo 104, the fashion project invites a number of prestigious houses and designers, including ERL, Fendi and now Chuulap.

The Chuulap collection, titled Sea Explorer, was inspired by the beauty of the ocean through the lens of pirates, lobsters and shells.

What made you look to the sea for this collection?

I love Cape Town. I live close to Sea Point and am always breathing in the sea breeze. The mountains and Cape Town became an inspiration. For spring/summer 2024, I didn't want to make it too obvious so I focused on the concept of a sea explorer. And that's why I ended up looking at pirates.

How did your collection do at Pitti Uomo?

It was amazing. I did not expect this honour; Pitti Uomo has been one of my dreams. I have been waiting for this invitation since the day I launched my label. While it was a presentation, I didn't want it to feel like a trade show. I took the media through my experiences in South Africa. When I arrived in the country I was just another designer. I had to build my brand and my name. I showed them my journey from styling to being a fashion director. I made it look like a studio set. Everyone was standing around us watching the work that we do.

What feedback stood out?

People keep calling Chuulap a “happy brand” or “happy fashion” which is true because there are a lot of colours, lots of textures and a lot of layering. I looked at it as a way of playing so I showed them how the creativity of my range should be worn.

Do you have a highlight from your Pitti Uomo debut?

It was my first time meeting Suzy Menkes. She came to say hi and had a few positive words to share. She loved what I did.

Also, I got to be there and see people's reactions. Through this platform, I was also able to get a focus on my collaborators like Crystal Birch, Missibaba and iFele. This is how I work. Whenever I have a show or presentation I always extend it to other designers or artists.

Sportswear was big this season. Is that something you will focus on more in your next collections?

Definitely. I love doing active clothing and it's one of my plans for future collections.

Were there any trends you spotted?

I always thought that it was conservative and dressy, but when I walked around everyone looked amazing. They were polished and well-groomed. People were pushing boundaries by wearing prints and lots of colours. Five years from now, we won't see people wearing a lot of suits. They'll be finding innovative ways to express themselves.